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Olive Oil

Common Name: Olive Oil
INCI: Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Soap INCI: Sodium Olivate

Major Properties:  

Olive oil has been used for countless years as an antioxidant and as a skin softener. It’s moderately high in Vitamin E and K, and loaded with polyphenols, and various fatty acids like; oleic acid, linoleum acid. It is a heavier and slower to absorb oil when used in things like lotions and scrubs.

Seriously Important Info:

A 100% pure bar of olive oil soap (even at 70% olive oil), has gross snot like bubbles. It’s a great ingredient as a filler, but it is a pricey one. These bars of high ratios of olive oil soap take a lot longer to cure before they are mild enough to use. Even at two years, I find they aren’t all that gentle.

Why I picked it:

For two reasons:

  1. it helps make to make the bar of soap nice and hard
  2. it has a number of benefits to help keep the skin happy and healthy.

Other uses: 

Mainly, I just use olive oil in soaps. But, can be used in lotions, scrubs. lip care

Substitutions: 

Soap: you can substitute some of the olive oil in soap for ingredients like ice bran oil, sweet almond oil and such.

Lotions: I’d just change the formula up to just not include it.

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Clays

Common Name: Cosmetic Clays; Kaolin, Green, Pink
INCI: Kaolin, Illite 

Major Properties: Provides slip, a gentle exfoliator, makes the bubbles more silky. Clay does provide gentle day to day exfoliation when used in bar soap or cleansers. It helps to make the bubbles more dense, providing more cushion for your razor.

Seriously Important Info: Clays are commonly used to colour soaps, enhance slip, and to help create denser bubbles.

Why I picked it: Who cares about the colours! Bubbles? Did I loose you somewhere? Bubbles! Kaolin Clay is one of the easiest clays to get your hands on, and one of the cheapest. It’s an amazing ingredient! Pink and green clays are a fair bit more pricy. 

Other uses: body and face masks, cosmetics, cleansers, soap

Substitutions: These three can be used interchangeably, just be cautious of the price. 

 

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Castor Oil

Common Name: Castor Oil 
INCI: Ricinus Communis
Soap INCI: Sodium Castorate

Major Properties:  BUBBLES! It helps to stabilize the lather when saponified. It also acts like a humectant by drawing moisture to the skin. Quite high in Vitamin E, and its unusually high ricinoleic acid ratio makes it beneficial to skin and hair.

Seriously Important Info: It’s a very viscous oil, rarely used neat on the skin unless you are trying to regrow your eyebrows or as a deep conditioning treatment for your hair. It’s frequently used in lip products to impart some serious shine and hold power.

Why I picked it: Bubbles. Need I say more?

Other uses: lip products, oil cleansers, masks

Substitutions: Honestly, I wouldn’t want to substitute this oil for anything. It’s that unique!

 

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Rice Bran Oil

Common Name: Rice Bran Oil 
INCI: Oryza Sativ
Soap INCI: Sodium Ricebranate

Major Properties: Highly moisturising in soap. It imparts a nice shine to soaps once they are aged/cured properly. They also have the soap feeling very lush once they are set up. Rice bran oil is wonderfully deep moisturising, and a great combination of fatty acids and Vitamin E. 

Seriously Important Info: In soap, I’d not use more than 20% even at 15% it is pushing it. I find soaps with high amounts of rice bran oil takes a good long while to unmould, cure, age before you can use them. And even then it is chancy. 

Why I picked it: I love the way rice bran oil looks in a final bar of soap. It makes the bar look glossy and lush and just very expensive looking! To me, the way a bar looks is just as important as how it works. Rice bran oil in lotions is brilliant imparting a glorious dry touch finish. 

Other uses: lip products, face products, scrubs, masks, butters, various body products

Substitution: 

Soap: olive oil, almond oil (sweet), canola oil

Lotions: apricot kernel oil, grapeseed, argan, camellia

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Palm Oil

Common Name: Palm Oil 
INCI: Elaeis Guineensis
Soap INCI: Sodium palmate

Major Properties:  Hardness, stabilizing bubbles. Palm Oil helps to to make the soap easier to unmould. As well, palm oil helps to make the soap reach a thicker trace.

Seriously Important Info: The palm oil Cheeky Bath Treats buys is responsibly and ethically sourced certified by the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO). 

Why I picked it: Bubbles! Ok. And hardness. I picked palm oil as an ingredient to provide me with a nice hard bar. Too many people complain about animal fats based soap (even though it is truly the best thing on the planet!), an my ingredient of choice (cocoa butter) is much too expensive as a key hardening ingredient. That pretty much left palm oil.

Other uses: soap. Only soap. I only use it in soaps! 

Subsitutions:

Soap: lard, tallow, cocoa butter, olive oil (last resort!)

 

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Coconut Oil

Common Name: Coconut Oil 
INCI: Cocos Nucifera Oil
Soap INCI: Sodium Cocoate

Major Properties:

Hardness, bubbles.

Seriously Important Info: Cold pressed virgin coconut oil is a dream on the skin! It has that faint nutty scent that lasts forever and a day in lotions and in lip products. In soaping, save you coins, the scent does not survive, you’re better to use the refined stuff as you get all the same properties for a fraction of the price. 

Why I picked it: Dude. Really? Bubbles. Big, fluffy, unreal, glorious bubbles!

Other Uses: lotion, lip products, body scrubs, soap

Substitutions: 

Soap: palm kernal flakes can work, but its very difficult to swap out coconut oil in soap.

Lotions: apricot kernel oil, argan oil

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Sweet Almond Oil

Common Name: Sweet Almond Oil
INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis
Soap INCI: Sodium Almondate

Major Properties: Rich in oleic acid and linoleic acid. With a lovely presence of Vitamin A, B1, B2, B6 and E. Sweet Almond Oil is a natural emollient, softening, and conditioning agent. Helps to improve the elasticity of the skin. It is a luxury oil. And helps to make your lips wicked shiny!

Seriously Important Info: It’s friggen awesome! It produces a rich conditioning lather in soaps, and is suitable for all skin types especially dry skin. Used neat as an oil on the skin, it is quick absorbing, and doesn’t leave behind a greasy finish.

Why did I pick it: It moisturises the skin, makes for a more glorious bar of soap, and helps with bubbles. And, my lips look bigger and fuller due to its shine factor! In soaps, I prefer the regular almond oil as it is a wash off product. And in leave on products like lip care and balms for examples, I prefer to use organic sweet almond oil.

Other Uses: lotions, face products, masks, soap, hair, lip, scrubs, hand and foot products

Substitutions:

Lotions: apricot kernel oil, grapeseed, sunflower

Soap: olive oil, rice bran oil

Lip: jojoba oil, safflower oil