Good morning from a very chilly China! The city has just recently turned on the heat in the apartments and that means the air in homes is getting blissfully drier! Whilst this makes drying clothes and dishes quick and easy, it really plays something horrible with the skin. Thankfully, the lovely Belinda and Marie introduced me to Aristoflex AVC from Lotioncrafter a long while ago and I’ve been in love with it ever since. My skin has taken on a remarkable improvement in feel, appearance and more since beginning to use AVC in my daily routine. It is some amazing fun stuff! (Note; I’ve tried AVC from a few different Taobao suppliers but with very little consistent results. Be VERY careful buying AVC in China)
And if you are like me and are a new and exotic oil junky, this one ingredient can help you quickly and easily test out a bunch of new ingredients without too much hassle. As long as you don’t use electrolytes.
One of the things I like doing, is to read people’s road of discovery. When a blogger creates the most amazing recipe and then has to share it with you, chances are that is not the first attempt at that recipe. It might be the eighth or twentieth attempt. Or ninetieth. What I want to know is, what were some of the previous recipes and why didn’t they work? That is the information I want to know!
This recipe was a good way to introduce myself to how silicone worked in a product I knew worked well on my skin. I’ve been using this silicone based product for about a month now and I am ready to share my findings with you.
So yeah silicones.
Since beginning my DIY journey, I’ve watched silicones go from being hailed as gods to being damned. And I have to admit, I was damning them for a while too until I grew into my #isurvivedgreenbeauty phase. But now that I am a preservative loving, ewax lover, high performance lover, it was time to begin playing with ingredients I knew worked well and met my high performance needs.
Silicone is a partial-occlusive non-greasy agent and it helps to create a moisture seal trying to prevent moisture loss; anything keeping moisture in is a plus! Silicone creates waterproof seal but still enables your skin to breathe. Moisture seal. Not gaseous seal. It also creates an “artificial barrier” allowing your skin to heal and it helps to smooth out the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Game set and match for silicone!
I’m actually not going to get into the “bad rep” that silicone has received online and from “green” beauty folk. Needless to say, do your research, and look at facts and not the fear mongering sites.
According to LotionCrafter, typical usage rate is .5-4%. I opted to start at 1% as it is a new ingredient and wanted to see if 1% was a noticeable difference. When you begin working with a new ingredient, you want to make sure that you introduce it at a low amount to see how your skin may react to it. You also don’t know what usage rate is good for you. So you spend a bit of time playing with new ingreidents at various usage rates. I began at 1% at .5% is a pain to measure! If I am being completely honest with you.
Things I noticed:
- my skin felt almost the same as it usually does, but Sonia noticed her skin was smoother.
- very little softening of fine lines
Things I didn’t notice:
- no real improvement in skin “function” (not sure how one would measure this really)
- no WHAMO I’ve just turned back the clock or received more compliments than usual on my skin
So, how would I change this recipe for the future? I would increase the silicone to 3% and drop the water by 2%.
- In a double boiler place a small glass measure with the water, hydrosol, vitamin B3, allantoin into the double boiler. Stir.
- While you wait for the allantoin and B3 to dissolve (can take a few minutes to many many few minutes by the way), measure out your AVC into a small beaker. Measure out your silicone and cranberry oil into another beaker. And in a third beaker, measure out your vitamin b5, oat peptide, and preservative.
- After about ten to twenty minutes of frequently stirring your beaker in the double boiler, your allantoin and vitamin B3 should be dissolved. Remove from heat and gently continue stirring for a minute. Slowly add in the oil.
- Sprinkle the AVC gently over your mixer, grab your whisk and ATTACK! In under five minutes your formula should have thickened up beautifully.
- Add in your beaker of Vitmin b5, oat peptide and preservative at this point.
- Decant into pump top contianers and apply after toner.
Have you worked with silicone before? What do you notice?